The Distant Temples

An angel in the form of a smiling produce man appeared to us today. If only I had consulted the guidebook I would have at least had some cautionary advise. “If you are driving into Agrigento, be warned that the one-way system in the old town is a nightmare.” What I would have done with that info I’m not sure. But at least I would have been warned.

Without indication of any kind, that I could decipher (Sicilian signage is often just a huge exclamation point!), some of the streets seem to all of a sudden become staircases. How many unwary travelers fly down there I wonder. I took to following another car in hopes of finding a way out. They parked. I went on…squeezing down a little street that just ended. I throw my hands up in frustration. A produce man is loading his little three-wheeled pickup. I suppose they must be used to the navigational shortcomings of tourists. His friendly expression and dark doe-like eyes put me at ease. He motions for me to make a u-turn, which only took a dozen maneuvers. Big sigh! He pulls out behind me. I glance at him in my rearview mirror. He points left. Now right. I miss the sign for the temples with all the checking the rear view. I pull over. He does the same. Aspetta. Now I’m making a u-turn across a main artery going down a VERY steep hill.

God bless you produce man!

We get thru round one of our journey thru the maze with optimism still intact.
Aspetta.

Valley of the Temples, sign points this way. I know I want to go down toward the water. But I am so wary of getting caught in yet another dead end. Signage disappears. On no. Up hill again. Back into the maze. One more time. We will try again.

But it’s not in the cards. I say to my sister, as I can either enter the maze for the third time or head for the Autostrada, “Take a look over the hill there… see the temples. That’s as good a view as you’re getting this trip.” Her understanding reply is: “If I were driving I would have abandoned the car long ago.”

I did have a wonderful meal in Agrigento. In what is called the 'modern' part of town…modern only in comparison to the ancient Greek temples…it is thoroughly medieval…we have one of our few restaurant meals.

After settling in to the sparse room of The Belvedere Hotel we venture out for dinner. I want something good. I need a reward for the drive (not knowing the worse was still to come in the morning). I choose a small restaurant up wide stone steps. The owner beckons. He brings me into the kitchen to show me the freshness of the ingredients. A huge platter of fresh whole fish is brought to the table. My sister is not an adventurous eater and the platter makes her cringe. I choose a fish, which is grilled to perfection and served whole. I don’t think my sister looks up during the meal. The side of pasta is in a simple fresh pommodoro sauce. Salad of lettuce and fennel. We share a cassata cake.

Carafe of house wine is easily vanquished.