Wednesday, January 9, 2008

From the heart

Artichokes were for stuffing.

My grandfather would hammer the kitchen table with the artichokes to spread the leaves, making room for garlicky breadcrumbs. The loud noise would initially be cause for alarm. Alarm would immediately turn to anticipation upon realization of what was cooking. He would set the artichokes to simmer in a large pot with new potatoes wedged among them to keep them standing upright.

Holiday meals always included 'stuffed caccociuli.' The outer leaves acting as means to shovel the stuffing to eager mouths.

The ‘choke’ and the 'heart' were culinary mysteries to me. Reaching those inner most parts you had exhausted the supply of breadcrumbs. I would wince and hand it over to my dad at that point. My sister handing hers to my mom. They were quick to savor these offerings, never insisting that we try it. What a racket they had going.

In later years, learning to appreciate the delicacy of the artichoke heart, I recall those metaphorical offerings of my heart to my dad.

Last summer there was an abundance of the tastiest artichokes. They had been kissed by a frost, browning their outer leaves. Most people passed them by. Oh they were so good!
I never buy those globe artichokes. It's those dangerously spiky types that yield the best meat and flavor in my experience. Cutting those beauties in half, with all their purplish overtones, reveals one of the most sensual visuals in the veggie kingdom.

I have a knack for taking the traditional bits of my heritage and putting a more contemporary spin on them... adjusting them to my hectic single mom lifestyle. I can't bear to entirely let them go... so I adapt. The following artichoke recipe is one I adapted from New Recipes from Moosewood Restaurant.

Ingredients:
3 Artichokes, stems cut, barbs clipped, sliced in half lengthwise
1 Quart water
2 Teaspoons salt
2-3 Tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 Tablespoon olive oil
2 Bay leaves
3 whole garlic cloves
6 whole peppercorns
1 Teaspoon fennel seeds

Method:
Place the artichoke halves and all the remaining ingredients in a stainless steel or enamel pan and bring the liquid to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until tender and outer leaf easily pulls away.
Drain the artichokes and discard cooking liquid.
Remove feathery choke.
Enjoy.

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